KALIADEM

View all

Address: Sleman, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°38'24" E110°23'13.2"

Kaliadem is the right place where we can look at the beauty of Mount Merapi and also the trace of the 2006's horrible eruption.

KALIADEM - Taking a Closer Look at the Real Face of Mount Merapi

 People said that the best time to enjoy the beauty of Mount Merapi is in the morning, before the fog comes down and hide this mountain from our view. It's 7 am and we were already on our way to go to Kaliadem, a chilly and cold area on the Mount Merapi slope, 25 km north of Yogyakarta. We chose the alternative road through Maguwo because this route has more beautiful rice field view than the Kaliurang street. We were just couples of kilometers away from the city and we already saw the beautiful rice field view that looks like Mooi Indie paintings. The fresh weather got into the car through the open windows and we could breath the smell of the paddy straws, just like the smell of grass right after showered by rain.

It was still morning when YogYES got into Kaliadem. Some of the villagers started to get ready to go looking for grass to feed their livestock. Mount Merapi looks so strong and gallant even though we could see a tiny layer of fog around the mountain. He is standing still on his throne, 2980 meters above the sea level, looks shining because of the morning sunrise. There was a thin smoke comes out from the top of the mountaing, made Mount Merapi looks more beautiful. Ladies and Gentlemen, we proudly present Mount Merapi, one of the most active volcanos in Indonesia!

Strong Power

 ome of the scientists said that it was probably the Mount Merapi eruption that made the Ancient Mataram Kingdom moved into East Java on the 10th century. When it erupted, hot clouds of 800-1000 degrees Centigrade would slide down at speeds up to 70 km / hr. In 1930, the hot clouds from Mount Merapi's eruption destroyed forests, 13 villages, and 1400 people in an instant.

The last eruption was in 2006 when millions cubic of volcanic materials spilled out to Gendol River and Krasak River. Few of them flowed in Kaliadem and the leaving trace of them still can be seen until now. Kaliadem was a pine forest, but now it is full of sands, rocks, and other volcanic materials. There's a building that used to be a food stall on the east side of Kaliadem, but it is half building buried by volcanic materials now. On the west side, there's a protection bunker that is ironically covered by 3 meters thick volcanic materials. The 2006 eruption also killed 2 people who were trying to hide in the protection bunker. It needed weeks for the materials to get cold so that people can come to Kaliadem again.

But like the other natural powers, the Mount Merapi eruption also has positive sides. The volcanic dusts created a fertile land and field around the mountain. Million cubic of sands created jobs for sand miners from surrounding villages. Now after 4 years, Kaliadem starts being green and cold again. The pine trees start to grow and Kaliadem back to be a place where people can look at the beauty of Mount Merapi and also be witnesses of the both sides of a natural power

Mbah Maridjan, The Gatekeeper of Mount Merapi

 After visiting Kaliadem, YogYES stopped by at Mbah (wise old man or grandfather) Maridjan's house at the south of Kaliadem. Mbah Maridjan is a royal servant, born at 1927, and was given an order by the King of Yogyakarta Palace to be the Mount Merapi's gatekeeper, continuing his father job.

As a gatekeeper, he has to "take care" the mountain. Every year he has to lead the ritual of Labuhan Merapi, a ritual when hundreds of people climb up to the near of the Mount Merapi's peak and then pray to the God to protect them. This ritual is held every Rajab month in the Javanese calendar.

Before the 2006 eruption, Mbah Maridjan is very popular among the Indonesian people, especially who live in Yogyakarta. In the beginning May, Mount Merapi starts to spill the lava and the scientist estimated that it's going to explode soon. The people live around Mount Merapi were started to be evacuated, but Mbah Maridjan refused to leave. He said that he was ordered by the Yogyakarta King to take care of Mount Merapi so he did not want to leave because he had to do his job. Couple days after that, Mbah Maridjan climbed up the Mount Merapi and prayed to God to protect all the people surrounding. Believe it or not, Mount Merapi started to calm down and 11.000 people were allowed to go back to their house. In that time, the Indonesian President, SBY, also came to take a look at the Mount Merapi situation.

Mount Merapi erupted a month later and spilled millions cubic of volcano materials to Gendol River, Krasak River, and Kaliadem, and "only" 2 people were killed when they are trying to hide inside of the protection bunker. Since that time, Mbah Maridjan becomes very popular in Indonesia. Many people consider him as a supernatural man and came to him to ask for a blessing.

But far from people opinion, Mbah Maridjan is a friendly, humble and religious person. When we got into his house, he was having guests but he told us to come in and joined them. We had conversation and some jokes in Javanese language while enjoying the food and drink.

One of the guests asked him to bless his business but Mbah Maridjan refused and said, "as far as I know, only God who can give blessing. None other can, including me."

We kept talking about anything, including Mount Merapi. Mbah Maridjan said that every time Mount Merapi gives a sign of going to erupt, he would be the one who's being busy. Hundreds of people would come to his house, day and night, and he would not be able to get some rest. All of that guests would ask the same question, when would the Mount Merapi erupt and Mbah Maridjan would give the same answer, "don't ask me, ask God the Almighty."

As a royal servant, he received Rp. 5.800/month from the palace. He can only buy 1 kg of rice with that money, but Mbah Maridjan (and also thousands of other royal servants) never complain about their life. Just like Mbah Maridjan always said to his guests: do not live excessively, do not look up but look down.

Dhuhr time came as the Azan heard from the nearest mosque. As Mbah Maridjan asked permission to go pray to the mosque, we asked permission to go back home.

So, that's Yogyakarta, friend. It is not as simple as what we see on TV. Kaliadem, Mount Merapi, and Mbah Maridjan are the symbol of friendship between local people with the mother nature and also the loyalties of Yogyakarta people to the Javanese tradition without leaving their believe and religion.

View full photo

Address: Desa Nglanggeran, Patuk, Gunungkidul, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°50'26.052" E110°32'41.964"

Mount Nglanggeran is an ancient volcano form a giant boulder. Besides being able to watch the sunset & sunrise dazzling and sparkling Yogyakarta at night, in the East Peak Nglanggeran there are also the mystery of hamlet with 7 heads of households.

MOUNT NGLANGGERAN
An Ancient Volcano with 7 Families

Watching the gorgeous sunset from the top of a mountain is a very special moment that not everyone can enjoy. The extreme route, unpredictable weather, hard track, and long distance become the obstacle for many people to go mountain climbing. However, you don't need to deal with those difficulties when you go to Mount Nglanggeran in Patuk, Gunungkidul. It only takes 1 to 1.5 hours tracking, you will get its western peak, which is called Mount Gede. Beautiful landscape will be in front of you. You will see the spread of clouds, a range of mountains forming unique shape, housing, and also green field. When the day is getting dark, Yogyakarta will look like the ocean of light. The twinkling of the stars and the sparkling of the lamps in distance becomes romantic scene for those who have camping activity there.

Mount Nglanggeran is an ancient volcano that used to be active million years ago. Located on Baturagung karst area, Nglanggeran was lithologically formed by old volcanic material fragment. It has two peaks, namely western and eastern peak with a caldera in the center. Nowadays, Nglanggeran is a range of huge rocky mountain which has exotic view, unique shape and names, and also history behind it. The mountains in the range are usually named based on their shape, for example Mount 5 Jari, Mount Kelir, and Mount Wayang.

It was still in the morning when YogYES got to the eastern peak of the mountain. According to the organizer, it was the best spot to enjoy the sunrise. Unfortunately, when we were there, dark cloud covered the sky and the sun. Since we couldn’t see the sunrise, we decided to visit Mbah Redjodimulyo as the elder living on the top of Mount Nglanggeran. According to him, a village on the top of the mountain named Tlogo Mardidho, could only be occupied by 7 families. If their number was more or less than 7, there would be something bad. It could be seen from the cemetery. Furthermore, when their children has got married and born children, the new family should leave the village.

After visiting a village occupied by 7 families, we got back to base camp and tried to climb Mount Gede. Different from the eastern peak which was possibly reached by motorbike, this peak forced us to do tracking. Walking along the path with stony hill around us became a wonderful experience. The higher we climb, the steeper the track. To help the climbers on the tracking, rope was set. Soon after we passed that route, a new challenge came since there was a very narrow and steep gap between stony hills on each side was in front of us. It can only be passed by one person, so we had to walk one by one. After passing the gap, one of us said "It's like something happened in a movie entitled 127 Hours. It's tense but cool..."

Ticket: IDR 3,000 (in afternoon); IDR 5,000 (at night)

Package Tour:

    * Tracking (at least 3 people): IDR 25,000 for each
      Includes: ticket, guide, village tracking, and a portion of kelapa muda (young coconut) or dawet    Kalisong
    * A package 4 hours in Dewa Pesona Purba (at least 5 people): IDR 35,000 for each
      Includes: ticket, guide, village tracking, cacao cultivation lesson, and a portion of kelapa muda
    * Outbound 1 (at least 40 people) : IDR 50,000 for each
      Includes: ticket, guide, village tracking, games, cacao cultivation lesson, kelapa muda/soto omahan
    * Outbound 2 (at least 40 people) : IDR 100,000 for each
      Includes: ticket, guide, village tracking, games, cacao cultivation lesson, flying fox, a meal time, and twice snack time
    * Package eastern peak : IDR 100,000
      Includes: includes ticket, guide, village tracking, Tlogo Guyangan, mystery of 7 families, sunset in Nglanggeran, and kelapa muda
    * Package Sunset & Sunrise : IDR 300,000
      Includes: ticket, guide, village tracking, home stay, sunset and sunrise in Nglanggeran, and twice snack time

Notes: The ancient volcano Nglanggeran is fully organized by Karang Taruna Desa Nglanggeran (Youth Organization of Nglanggeran Village). For more information or reservation, you can call Sugeng Handoko (+62 818 0260 6050), Heru Purwanto (+62 818 0410 3999).

Tugu Jogja, the Most Popular Landmark in Yogyakarta

 

Tugu Jogja is the most popular landmark of Yogyakarta. This monument is located right in the center of the crossroad between the Mangkubumi, Soedirman, A.M. Sangaji and Diponegoro roads. The Tugu Jogja that is almost 3 centuries old has a very deep meaning and it keeps some history records of Yogyakarta.

Tugu Jogja was built around one year after the construction of Yogyakarta Kingdom. At the early time of its construction, it clearly described the philosophy of the unity of God's creatures that means the spirit of togetherness of lay people and authorities to fight colonials. In Javanese term, the spirit of togetherness is called golong gilig that is clearly described in the construction of the monument: the pole is of gilig (cylinder) form and the top part is golong (rounded). This monument was known as Tugu Golong-Gilig.

In details, the monument was originally constructed in the form of a cylindrical pole with conical form upwards. The base is an encircling fence while the top is rounded. The preliminary height of the monument was 25 meters.

Everything changed when on Monday, 10 June 1867, a big earthquake in Yogyakarta ruined the monument. The collapse of the monument was the transition time when the unity was not really reflected on the monument.

The situation changed totally when in 1889 the Dutch government renovated the monument. The monument was constructed as a square with each side being decorated with a kind of inscription containing the names of people who were involved in the renovation. The top portion is no longer rounded but a pointed cone. The height of the monument is also lower, namely 15 meters. Since then, this monument was also called as De Witt Paal or Tugu Pal Putih (white pole monument).

The renovation of the monument was actually the tactic used by the Dutch colonial to erase the philosophy of togetherness between lay people and the king. Learning from the result of the struggle afterwards, however, the effort did not seem to be successful.

If we want to look at the monument satisfactorily while remembering its philosophical meaning, there are benches facing the monument on the corner of Mangkubumi Street. At 05:00 a.m. - 06:00 a.m. is the right time since the air is still fresh and not much passerby yet. Occasionally, the newspaper boy will greet us politely while riding his bicycle to go to the distribution office of the biggest local newspaper, the Kedaulatan Rakyat.

In the evening, we find the seller of gudeg (traditional menu cooked from young jackfruit) at the corner of Diponegoro Road. The gudeg sold here is delicious at reasonable price. You may have it in crossed-legs seating arrangement while looking at the view of the Tugu Jogja that is bathed with lights.

Being so identical of the Tugu Jogja to Yogyakarta makes many university students from outside of Yogyakarta to express their happiness after the graduation day by hugging and kissing the Tugu Jogja. That may also express their love to Yogyakarta that they will about to leave soon and at the same time say their promise to return to this city.

Text: Yunanto Wiji Utomo
Photo & Artistic: Agung Sulistiono Mabruron
English Translation: Emanuel, Downhill English Services

Copyright © 2007 YogYES.COM

SONOBUDOYO MUSEUM

 

Address: Jl. Trikora 6, Yogyakarta 55122, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°48'9.1" E110°21'50"


As many as around 1,200 keris from all parts of Indonesia can be seen in Sonobudoyo Museum. They range from the keris from Yogyakarta, Solo, Madura,to the ones from Kalimantan (it is called Mandau) and Sulawesi or celebes.

Sonobudoyo Museum, Admiring the Keris Collection

Visiting Sonobudoyo Museum is an alternative to see keris and other related items to it from all parts of Indonesia. The museum that keeps around 1,200 keris (most of them were donated by Java Institute) will satisfy your curiosity about keris since the Kingdom of Yogkarta that keeps sacred keris does not allow public to see its keris collection.

Sonobudoyo Museum is within easy reach from Yogyakarta Kingdom; it is located across the North Square of Yogyakarta. To get into it, you only have to pay the entrance ticket as much as IDR 3,000. Meanwhile, in order to see various kinds of keris, you have to go through quite long procedures because you have to get permission from the museum chief officer. This is because many of the keris collection are still kept in the collection room; they are not shown to public.

The first thing you will see that is related to keris is wesi budha (Buddha Iron); it is the main material to make keris that was used in around the year 700s AD, or during the triumphant of Hindu Mataram Kingdom. Wesi Budha can be seen in the middle room that also keeps some collections of the triumphant of Buddhism civilization in Indonesia. In addition to the wesi budha, there are various household furnishings, weapons and handicrafts of the same period.

Entering further, you can see some keris, even though the number is relatively small. Some of the exposed keris are straight keris, keris with 7 curves, 11 curves and 13 curves. Most of the keris displayed in this room are those from Jave. In addition to the keris, batik cloths with different patterns are kept there.

Another room behind the library of the museum, displays more types of keris. The museum attendant explained to YogYES that the room keeps various kinds of keris from all parts of Indonesia and it keeps collection of accessories such as pendok of Yogyakarta and Solo and the keris blade . More collection originates from outside of Yogyakarta since there was prohibition to collect keris with the quantity exceeding those of the collection of Yogyakarta Kingdom.

The Javanese keris kept in the museum are those with 7, 11, 13 curves or called luk and straight keris with various pamor (pattern), such as beras wutah / the spoiled rice (pamor that was accidentally resulted from the forging process, in the form of connectiong circles), sekar pakis (in the form of the fins flower) and so on. The keris from outside of Java that are kept there are, among others: the unique rencong Aceh, mandau from Kalimantan, keris from Madura and Bali, and keris from Sulawesi or Celebes.

In that collection room, you can also see many old keris handles with interesting designs. There are keris handles in the forms of human head, human full posture, dragon, lion, and so on. There are hundreds of pendok that are classified into two categories, namely Yogyakarta and Solo styles. Different from the keris handles with various designs, the shapes of pendok are relatively the same.

Thousands of the keris collection pay the difficulty to get in this collectio room. The museum attendant explained to YogYES that all the keris in the collection room will be displayed in an exhibition room that will be constructed in the future. You may hope that at your visit in the future time, you can see all of the collections without sophisticated permit.

Text: Yunanto Wiji Utomo
Photo & Artistic: Agung Sulistiono Mabruron
Copyright © 2007 YogYES.COM

Sonobudoyo Museum
Jl. Trikora No. 6 Yogyakarta
Phone: +62 274 418330

    * Tuesday - Thursday
      Visiting hours: 07.00 a.m. to 14.30 p.m.
    * Friday
      Visiting hours: 07.00 a.m. to 11.00 p.m.
    * Saturday - Sunday
      Visiting hours: 07.30 a.m. to 13.00 p.m.

Entrance Fee: IDR 3,000

SASMITALOKA MUSEUM

Address: Jl. Bintaran Wetan 3, Yogyakarta 55111, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°48'8.7" E110°22'30.9"


Sudirman is fatherly; holds to principle and conviction; always puts the interests of community and nation. He is the first General as well as the youngest Commander in the Republic of Indonesia.

SASMITALOKA MUSEUM - Visiting The Home of a Guru

"My sons, Indonesian soldiers, you are not soldiers of fortune, but the ones with ideology, who are willing to struggle and to face danger for the glory of your country. Trust it and believe it, that the independence of a nation that is built upon a pile of ruins of thousands of souls and wealth of its people and nation, will never be able to be destroyed by anyone, no body!" (General Sudirman)


Bantarbarang village of Rembang Sub-District, Purbalingga Regency, Banyumas Residence witnessed the birth of little baby on Monday, 24 January 1916. His cries initiated the birth of a great character in the revolution of Indonesia. His father, Karsid Kartawiraji and Siyem, his mother, who gave birth to their children named him Sudirman. His step father, Raden Cokro Sunaryo, added 'Raden' in front of the name Sudirman.

After his formal education in Taman Siswa, he continued his study to HIK Muhammadiyah Solo. In 1934, Raden Sudirman who was active in Islamic Boy Scout Organization, Hizbul Wathon, became a headmaster in Muhammadiyah elementary school in Cilacap. Being a headmaster, he was open, was willing to listen to others' opinion and always gave solution to problems existing among teachers. Apart from being a headmaster, he also taught in Muhammadiyah Junior High School in Cilacap.

The Road to Become a General

Military career of Pak Dirman (his familiar address during the guerilla) started when he joined a training of PETA (Pembela Tanah Air / Country Defender) soldier officers in Bogor. After the training, he was then appointed a Daidancho (Commander of Daidan, equals to a battalion) in Banyumas.

Several months after the proclamation of Indonesian independence on 17 August 1945, Japanese troop was compelled by the Allied Forces to hand over the weapons to Indonesian soldiers. The unwillingness of Japan to hand over the country inventory caused them to shoot each other and took many victims from both sides. However, it did not happen in Banyumas. Thanks to the wisdom of Mr. Dirman (he was appointed the Commander of Division V/Banyumas with his title as a Major) in the meeting, there is no bloodshed in the process of weapons hand over. Due to his services and achievement, Pak Dirman who was tenacious, soft in speaking and fatherly in protecting his subordinates, was appointed as Commander of TKR (Tentara Keamanan Rakyat / People's Security Army) on 12 November 1945 and was inaugurated on 18 December 1945 by the President.

Pak Dirman was only 29 years old by that time but he was capable of being a leader who took quick decision with direct, firm follow up. He succeeded in incorporating various forces into Indonesian army, so that on 3 June 1947 he retained his General rank after TKR changed into TRI before finally it became APRI.

The road that General Sudirman took to sit in the highest position in APRI on 3 June 1947 was going through wars; from the independence war against Japan to pushing back the Allied Forces from Ambarawa (Palagan Ambarawa) to Semarang on 15 December 1945. After his position as a general, he did not just do nothing. He was carried on a sedan chair when he was ill while leading guerilla war against the Dutch troop. He set tactics for Military Aggression I and Military Aggression II at different places. This marathon travel as far as 1,000 kilometers for six months ended with the signing of Roem Royen Agreement. The Great Commander finally returned to Yogyakarta on 10 July 1949.

he History of the Guru's Home

The house located on Jalan Bintaran Wetan No.3 Yogyakarta is the house where General Sudirman used to live and it now becomes Sasmitaloka museum of the Great Commander General Sudirman. Sasmitaloka in Javanese language means the place to remember, to commemorate. This museum is the place to commemorate services and sacrifices of General Sudirman.


This building that was constructed during the Dutch Indian government in 1890 has very long history. At the early time of its foundation, this historical building was meant for a finance officer of Paku Alam VII castle, Mr Winschenk. During Japanese colony this building was vacant and the goods were confiscated. In the independence time of the Republic of Indonesia, this building was used as the camp for Tukul Company of Suharto Battalion. Since 18 December 1945 until 19 December 1948 this became official residence of General Sudirman when he became the Highest Commander of TKR. Then, during the Dutch Aggression II it was used by the Dutch colony as the Camp of IVG T Brigade and after the sovereignty of the Republic of Indonesia on 17 December 1949, was used as the office of Yogyakarta Military Command, then dormitory for XII Infantry Regiment and invalid people respectively. On 17 June 1968 it was used as Infantry Central Museum until it was inaugurated as the Museum of Sasmitaloka General Sudirman on 30 August 1982.

Exploring Sasmitaloka

Entering Sasmitaloka museum from the north gate, visitors will see the inscription of the Great General Sudirman. In the front yard of the main building there is a monument of the Great General Sudirman. The monument is in the shape of a statue of Pak Dirman who is riding the horse with the writing on four sides as described earlier. On the northern part of the monument there is a machine gun and cannon on its southern side.

The main building has three doors in the front part and one door connecting to the hall at the back part. The main building consists of six rooms connecting one to each other. The front part is guest room. In the room where General Sudirman welcome his official guests there are six chairs and one table, one set each in the north part and the southern part. In between those two rooms there is a medal given to General Sudirman. At the back of the room, there is a living room that is located at the center of the main building that also functions as the room for guest room of General Sudirman family. In the living room there are two sets of chair and an old radio owned by General Sudirman. In the north part of the living room, visitors may enter the working room that is located in the west part connecting to the sleeping room in the east. In the working room, there are confiscated weapons and the weapons that General Sudirman used. In this room, YogYES stops a while to read the writing written by Buya Hamka about General Sudirman. In the south of the living room there is a General Sudirman's sleeping room that is adjacent to his daughters' sleeping room in the west. The hall that functions as dining room as well as the play ground where he plays and chats with his daughters is located to the east of the living room. The main building is arranged similarly to the condition when General Sudirman and his family were living there.

In the north wing of the main building there is a building with three rooms. The front room is secretarial room to keep chairs and table used by Lieutenant Colonel Sudirman when he was promoted to be the Highest Commander of TKR. Secretarial room is connected with Palagan Ambarawa room in the eastern part. In this room, there are weapons confiscated from Japanese soldiers that were used to fight against the Allied Forces in Palagan Ambarawa, and English weapons that were taken away in the war, and diorama of Palagan Ambarawa war. In the east of the room there is Panti Rapih room. There is a diorama in this room describing the room where General Sudirman was hospitalized in Panti Rapih hospital. There are also some equipments utilized during his treatment.

After seeing Panti Rapih room, visitors can see Sobo and Pacitan rooms, which are located at the eastern part of the building at the south wing of the main building. In this room there are simple weapons that they use during their guerrilla. The unity of the army and citizens was realized in their willingness to give their belongings to retain Indonesian independence. Adjacent to this room, at the west part, there is a diorama room of the guerilla. There are three dioramas picturing the commencement of the guerilla and the difficult struggle that they had to undergo to coordinate with the troops in local areas. There is also the sedan chair on which General Sudirman was carried during the guerilla. Next to it is the clothing room. One of the clothes collections that was always worn by General Sudirman is the wool mantel. In between diorama room and clothing room there is an alley on which wall hang some letters written by General Sudirman. Photographs of what General Sudirman did before guerilla until his demise and two sets of Pak Dirman's official clothes can be seen in photo and documentation room that is located at the west part of the building.

The Great Hero is Gone

17 August 1949 was a special day when the Independence Day was celebrated in Gedung Agung Yogyakarta after the return of Soekarno-Hatta from Bangka on 6 July 1949 and General Sudirman from his guerilla on 10 July 1949.

Based on the Round Table Conference on 27 December in Den Haag, Netherlands officially handed over the sovereignty of the Republic of Indonesia. Unfortunately, the Great General Sudirman could not see further result of his struggle. Tuberculosis virus gnawing his lungs after going in and out of forests for months finally defeated him. On 29 January 1950, the Great General died in a place provided for retired soldiers in Badakan, Magelang. He was then buried in the funeral for the patriots in Semaki, Yogyakarta.

The Great Commander is also a common human being. He has home and family to protect. Through this visualization, the museum tells more about the life of General Sudirman as a husband and father, and the highest leader in military. A general that never surrendered to colonies, even to the illness he suffered. Entering the museum seems like entering channel of time when the Great General Sudirman spent his days as a Leader. (YogYES.COM: R. Syah)

The Great Commander General Sudirman Sasmitaloka Museum
Jl. Bintaran Wetan No. 3 Yogyakarta
Phone: +62 274 376663

Visiting hours:
Monday to Tuesday: 08.00 a.m to 02.00 p.m.
Saturday to Sunday: 08.00 a.m to 12.00 a.m.
Friday: closed
Entrance Fee: voluntary

SASANA WIRATAMA

 

Address: Jl HOS Cokroaminoto TR III/430, Yogyakarta 55244, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°47'12.7" E110°21'5"


Of aristocratic class, direct descendant of the Yogyakarta King, but he prefers to live humbly with lay people. Pangeran Diponegoro is one of the strugglers to whom the Dutch colony is afraid.

SASANA WIRATAMA - Commemorating the Struggle of Prince Diponegoro

20 July 1825
The Castle in Tegal Rejo where Pangeran Diponegoro lived


Outside the fort there were three-time gun explosions; the war started. North, east and south sides were besieged by Dutch troop. Paramilitary troop at the west side fought hard. Lead by Joyomustopo and Joyoprawiro, the paramilitary troop was pushed back. The force was far different. A man in white robe and white turban on his head calmly and wisely chose to break down the west wall of the castle. With several hits the wall was broken down. A command was given to save the family and the remaining paramilitary troop. With his entire troop, the man in white robe chose to go away to the west. It was such a difficult decision made to save his family and troop.

Kanjeng Pangeran Diponegoro (Prince Diponegoro)

He was born in the Kingdom of Yogyakarta on 11 November 1785; his nickname was Bendoro Raden Mas Ontowiryo and later was called Kanjeng Pangeran Diponegoro as the oldest son of Raden Ayu Mangkorowati (the daughter of Pacitan Regent) the concubine of Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono III (HB III).

Pangeran Diponegoro had stronger interest in religious life and equality with lay people, so that he preferred to live in Tegalrejo village.

Java War

During the reign of HB V (1822), Pangeran Diponegoro did not agree to the governance system held by Patih Danurejo and a Dutch officer. This rebellion culminated in 1825, after the Dutch made the road connecting Yogyakarta and Magelang passing through his house (now a railway). The Dutch colony that did not ask Pangeran Diponegoro for permission was fought by Pangeran and his troop. The Dutch that had a reason to seize Pangeran Diponegoro as a rebel; the Dutch troop surrounded his house on 20 July 1825. Being shoved, Pangeran and his family saved their lives to the west until Dekso village in Kulonprogo Regency and continued to the south reaching Selarong cave located five kilometers west of Bantul town.

 The Dutch troop that did not succeed in capturing him fired Pangeran Diponegoro's house.

Selarong cave that is situated in Kentolan Lor village, Guwosari Pajangan of Bantul Regenc was the camp of Pangeran Diponegoro where he set guerrilla strategy against the Dutch colony. Pangeran lived in the west part of the cave, named Goa Kakung, functioning as his place for meditating. Raden Ayu Retnaningsih (his concubine who faithfully accompanied him after the demise of his earlier two wives) and his troop lived in Goa Putri in the eastern part.


The Diponegoro War that lasted until 1830 was called Java Oorlog (Java War) in history books written by the Dutch writers. In this war, the Dutch colony lost not less than 15,000 soldiers and spent more than 20 millions Gulden.

The History of Sasana Wiratama building

Located about 4 kilometers of Jogja city center, as wide as 2.5 hectares land that used to be managed by Tourism and Culture Department was handed by the heir of Pangeran Diponegoro, Raden Ayu Kanjangteng Diponegoro, to function as a monument after signing a transfer letter with Nyi Hadjar Dewantara and Kanjeng Raden Tumenggung Purejodiningrat. On the land that is now owned by Yogyakarta Kingdom, beginning from mid of 1968 until 19 August 1969, a monument was built on pringgitan building that adjoined with the pendopo at the center of the complex. The project was initiated by Major General Surono who was the Commander of the Military District and was inaugurated by President Suharto. This place was then named Sasana Wiratama that means the place for soldiers.


Passing through the main gate, turning to west side, the hall is surrounded by museum, the broken wall, dormitory and library. Additional buildings other than the hall including the gate were made between 1970 and 1973, led by Major General Widodo. The broken wall and Padasan, the place for Moslems to take clean water before praying, and Komboran, a stone container for Pangeran Diponegoro's horses to get water and food, at the south-east part of the hall are inheritances of Pangeran Diponegoro.

In front of the building situated on H.O.S Cokroaminoto Street in Tegalrejo village, there is a statue of Lieutenant General Urip Soemohardjo with the writing "Orde.Contre-Ordre.Desordre!" on the east side and a statue of General Sudirman with the writing "Jangan Lengah" meaning 'Don't be inattentive' on the west side. These statues represent the place where Indonesian people struggled for their independence. After passing through the gate, there is a two-meter high wall resembling the dome of a mosque with a picture of a giant opposing a dragon on the upper part of it. "The picture means Butho Mekso Basuki ning Bawono, Javanese old words or codes that are expressed in pictures," said Budiman to YogYES. The words are read backwards. The writing of 5281 means 1825 as the onset of Diponegoro war.

Historical Remains

There are 100 items as the collection of Diponegoro museum, consisting of some original goods of Diponegoro paramilitary troop ranging from war weapons, coins, precious stone and home furniture. Some examples of weapons are lance, kris, sword, arrow, bandil (iron hammer), patrem (a kind of weapon for women), and candrasa (a sharp weapon that looks like a chignon pin used by women spies). There are also some household tools made from brass in 1700s such as betel container and its kecohan (container in which someone spits after chewing betel), canting (an instrument used to make batik) holder, bringsing pot, and various forms of kacip (a tool to slice areca nut as an ingredient to chew betel).

There are two sacred weapons kept in this museum, namely a kris with 21 curves named Kyai Omyang, made by an empu (kris maker) who lived during Majapahit time and a sword originating from Demak Kingdom. Those two sacred weapons are believed to be able to prevent disasters.

There is also a small statue of Ganesha, the lace of the horses that pull a cart presented by HB VIII, a couple of Loro Blonyo statue and a pair of decorative lamp. There are some parts of the gamelan (Javanese music instrument) owned by HB II that was made in 1752
in the forms of a percussion and wilahan bonang made of wood, copper and brass. There is also a cannon in the east of the hall.

In addition to the broken wall, padasan and komboran, other inheritances are kept in Magelang. There are Koran, Cup and Pot, Robe, four tables and one chair. In Satria Mandala museum in Jakarta there are horse saddle and a lance. One kris of Pangeran Diponegoro is still kept in Netherlands.

The Demise of a Great Struggler

After lasting for five years and suffering from big loss and promising 50,000 Gulden to whomever that can capture Pangeran Diponegoro, the Dutch colony still could not capture him.

• 16 February 1830, Colonel Cleerens came to Pangeran Diponegoro in Remo Kamal, Bagelen, Purworejo to invite him for a meeting in Magelang. Pangeran Diponegoro agreed to this idea.
• On 28 March 1830, with his troop, Pangeran Diponegoro saw General Governor Markus de Kock. In the meeting De Kock urged Pangeran Diponegoro to cease war. Pangeran Diponegoro refused it. The Dutch colony, via Colonel Du Perron, had prepared a careful attack. Pangeran Diponegoro and his troop were defeated. On the day, Pangeran Diponegoro was exiled to Ungaran and then he was brought to Residence Building in Semarang.
• 5 April 1830 he was sent to Batavia by Pollux ship.
• 11 April 1830 he was arrested in Stadhuis (now Fatahillah museum).
• 30 April 1830, General Governor Van den Bosch decided to send Pangeran Diponegoro, Retnaningsih, Tumenggung Diposono and his wife, and other followers such as Mertoleksono, Banteng Wereng and Nyai Sotaruno to Manado for an exile.
• 3 May 1830, Pangeran Diponegoro and the group were sent by Pollux ship and were arrested in Amsterdam Fort. The Dutch colony still considered him a threat since in this place he cans still communicate with community.
• In 1834 he was exiled separately. Pangeran Diponegoro and Retnaningsih were sent to Makassar, South Sulawesi and were arrested in Roterdam Fort under tight control.
• Pangeran Diponegoro could not move freely. He spent the days with Retnaningsih and finally he died on 8 January 1855. He was buried in Kampung Melayu, Makassar, side by side with his wife tomb.

After 151 years, Indonesian people still feel the lost of the great struggler. He had the struggle spirit without ever surrendering.

Commemorating a great struggler can be done in different ways. If you want to have a closer look at the spirit of Pangeran Diponegoro's struggle and experienced it yourself, the broken wall will tell you about it silently. You can only see such an extraordinary view of the wall that was broken only by the hits of Pangeran Diponegoro's in Sasana Wiratama. (YogYES.COM: R. Syah)

Sasana Wiratama museum / Diponegoro monument
Jl. HOS Cokroaminoto TR.III/430 Tegalrejo, Yogyakarta
Phone: +62 274 622668.

Visiting hours:
Monday to Saturday: 08.00 a.m to 01.00 p.m.
Sunday: closed
Entrance Fee: voluntary

MONUMEN JOGJA KEMBALI (MONJALI)

 

Address: Jl. Lingkar Utara, Yogyakarta 55581, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°45'1.3" E110°22'7.4"


In six hours time the Dutch troop fled in disorder. An attack serves as the return point of the sovereignty of the Republic of Indonesia.

MONUMEN JOGJA KEMBALI (MONJALI) - The Track of Six-Hours Occurrence in Yogyakarta

1 March 1949, 06.00 a.m.
Yogyakarta City Center

The sound of serene signaling break time sounded from the Dutch defense post. Under the command of Lieutenant Colonel Suharto, Commander of Brigade 10 of Wehrkreise III area, an attack to the Dutch defense was started after getting an agreement from Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono IX as initiator of the attack. The Dutch troop that since the Dutch Military Aggression II in December 1948 was distributed to small posts was separated and weakened. During six hours, Indonesian National Army succeeded in occupying Yogyakarta, after hitting the Dutch troop. Right at 12.00 in the afternoon, as it was planned, all Indonesian army drew back from the city center when the Dutch support came; total loose at the Dutch side.

This battle known as Serangan Umum 1 Maret was initial authentication to the international world that Indonesian National Army still had power to fight and to state that the Republic of Indonesia still existed. This was triggered by the capture and the exile of Bung Karno and Bung Hatta to Sumatera setting propaganda that the Republic of Indonesia had not existed.

This news about the six-hour attack was then sent to Wonosari, continued to Bukit Tinggi, then Burma, New Delhi (India), and finally in the main office of the UN in New York. With this news, the United Nations that considered Indonesia to have been independent compelled the execution of KTN (Komisi Tiga Negara / Commission of Three Nations). The meeting held in Des Indes Hotel Jakarta on 14 April 1949, where Indonesia was represented by Moh. Roem and representatives of Netherlands led by Van Royen, resulted in an agreement signed on 7 May 1949. This agreement was later called Roem Royen Statement. In this agreement Netherlands was compelled to withdraw its troop from Indonesia, and to return President and the Vice President, Soekarno-Hatta to Jogja. Finally on 27 December 1949 Netherlands officially handed over the sovereignty of the Republic of Indonesia.

Implied and Explicit Meaning of History Hallmark

In order to commemorate the struggle history of the nation, Yogya Kembali monument was built on 29 June 1985. The placement of the first stone of the 31.8 meter-high monument was done by HB IX after planting buffalo head as traditional ceremony. Four years later, on 6 July 1989, this building was finished. The opening was done by President Soeharto by signing the inscription.

The monument that is located in Jongkang village, Sariharjo Sub-District, Ngaglik District of Sleman Regency is of a mountain shape, symbolizing fertility and preservation of pre-historical ancestor's culture. The location of the monument was based on local culture that is located on imaginary axis connecting Merapi, Tugu, Sultan Palace, Panggung Krapyak, and Parang Tritis. "Macrocosmic Axis or the Great Axis of Life", as Gunadi told YogYES. The imaginary point in the building standing on 5.6 hectare land can be seen on the third floor where the flag pole is standing.


The name Yogya Kembali that means Yogya Returns symbolizes the return of the function of Indonesian Republic Government and historical hallmark of the Dutch troop withdrawal from Yogyakarta as the capital on 29 June 1949 and the return of President Soekarno, Vice President Mohammad Hatta and other officers on 6 July 1949 to Yogyakarta.

From Aircraft Replica to Quiet Room

Entering the monument area that is located about three kilometers north of Jogja city center visitors will be welcomed by replica of Cureng Aircraft close to the east gate and replica of Guntai Aircraft close to the west entrance. Stepping up the podium at west and east sides, visitors can see two wheeled-machine guns complete with the seats, before stepping down to the open space in front of the foot of the monument mountain. At the south end of the yard stands a wall containing 420 names of the strugglers who died between 19 December 1948 and 29 June 1949 and the poem entitled Karawang Bekasi by Chairil Anwar that is intended for unknown patriots.

The monument is surrounded by fish pond that is divided by four alleys going to the main building. West and east alleys connect to the entrance of the first floor that consists of four rooms presenting at least 1,000 collections of the attack on 1 March, the struggle before the independence until Yogyakarta became the capital of Indonesia. Uniform of Student Military and the sedan chair used to carry the Great General Sudirman are kept there. There is also the main meeting room, which is located adjacent to room I. This rounded room of 25 meter diameter is a functional room that is rented for seminar of even feasts.

North and south alleys are connected to the stairs leading to the second floor at the outdoor wall that circles the building that is carved with 40 reliefs picturing the struggle of Indonesian nation from 17 August 1945 until 28 December 1949. Some historical events such as physical struggle and diplomacies since the proclamation of Indonesian independence, the return of the President and Vice President to Yogyakarta and the formation of People's Security Army are pictured in the relief. While in the building, there are 10 dioramas encircling the building and picturing situations when the Dutch troop attacked Maguwo on 19 December 1948, 1 March attack, Roem Royen Statement, and ceremony of Independence Day on 17 August 1949 in Gedung Agung Yogyakarta.

The uppermost floor is a round, quiet room with a flag pole with the red and white flag on it at the center of the room, and relief of a fist on the west wall symbolizing physical struggle and diplomacy struggle on the east wall. The Garbha Graha room functions as a place to say prayers for the heroes and remember their struggle.

By far, the history of the nation struggle is heard only from the history teachers at school, or from the story told by the grandfather to his children in law. Yogya Kembali monument gives clearer description of how the independence was achieved by looking at the dioramas, carved reliefs or collection of clothes and weapons used by the strugglers of the independence. One place that will satisfy your desires of knowledge about the road that Indonesian nation had to take to get its independence. (YogYES.COM: R. Syah)

Monumen Yogya Kembali
Ring Road Utara, Yogyakarta
Phone: +62 274 868225.

Visiting Hours:
Tuesday to Sunday: 08.00 a.m. to 04.00 p.m.
Monday: closed
Entrance fee: Adult: IDR 5,000; Foreign Tourist: IDR 7,500
Group (more than 30 persons), reduced by 10%. Kindergarten students: 50% reduction per person.

KEKAYON MUSEUM

 

Address: Jalan Raya Jogja-Wonosari km 7 No. 277, Bantul, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°48'54.5" E110°24'46.7"

A recording of Indonesian history in the form of a replica signing each scene of its development can bee seen in Kekayon Museum. Included in it is the history of the world-known puppet leather.

 

 

Kekayon Museum, Turning On the Record of Indonesian History

 The video recording describing the history of Indonesian nation may be seen often, but a recording in the form of a replica accounting for Indonesian history from old time to the independence proclamation is rarely seen, moreover a recording containing the history of the puppet art from the sixth to tenth centuries. Kekayon museum presents the rare recording in the location of its foundation, around 1 kilometer of the East Ring Road.

The museum that describes the history of Indonesian nation as well as the puppet history was founded on 23 July 1990 by Soedjono Prawirohadikusumo, a specialist doctor of mentally sick people. He believed that the art of leather puppet was able to bring someone to understanding of knowledge and manners to come to maturity in the sense that one can transform his knowledge to the next generation.

Entering the yard of the museum, you begin to turn on the recording of the Indonesian history. At the left, front corner of the museum, there is a building complex of the ancient human beings describing the origin of Indonesian people. Not far from it, an Austronesia complex describes the entrance of the new civilization to Indonesia so that agriculture and trading developed, especially thanks to the arrival of Chinese people.

At the front part of the museum, there is Borobudur lion statue, symbolizing the entrance of Hindu Buddha culture in the first - seventh centuries with Borobudur temple being the top of their culture. Water tower complex with the roof forming a temple lies at the right, rear of the museum, describing the triumph of Majapahit that succeeded in uniting almost all Indonesian current areas, even up to the current Malaysia and Thailand.

The symbol of Islam civilization advancement as the next historical scene in Indonesia after the triumph of Hindu Buddha is symbolized by Kudus Tower. Meanwhile, Pancuran Bidadari complex that is located at the left, center of the museum symbolizes the influence of the Dutch nation that colonized Indonesia for 350 years. The two complexes reflect the events taking place in Indonesia in the sixteenth century.

Replica of one scene of leather puppet art development is also made, in the form of Gunungan Kartasura that is located at the left, rear of the museum, describing the completion puppet stories in the eighteenth century by an artist of Surakarta Kingdom named Yododiupro from Kakawin Ramayana to become Serat Ramayana. Baleranu Mangkubumi complex, Japan statue and Proclamation statue symbolize the scene of Indonesian history before the independence.

Entering the room of the museum consisting of 4 parts, you will see collection of various leather puppets owned by Soedjono. There is a collection of the oldest leather puppets, namely wayang purwa or the first leather puppets that were performed since the era of Kediri Kingdom. The available wayang purwa are those made from buffalo skin with and without accessories. Room 1 and 2 are the places to keep the puppet collection.

Room 3 keeps other kinds of puppet, for instance Wayang Madya that existed in Kediri-Majapahit time, telling the time after Bharatayudha war.

Besides, there are gedhog puppets telling the story of Dewi Candrakirana, klithik puppet telling Damarwulan and Minakjinggo, Dupara puppet telling the struggle of Diponegoro and Suluh puppet that tells the struggle of Indonesian people to get the independence.

What is unique is that this museum keeps Wayang Kancil telling the legendary story of a mouse deer that stole cucumber, a puppet story that was adapted to become a famous story among old and young people. There are two kinds of Wayang Golek originating from West Java, and statues of some puppet characters such as Dewi Shinta and Rahwana.

In this museum, you can match your zodiac with the characters in the puppet world and foresee your character through a poster hanging on the wall that you can read clearly. There is another poster describing the war strategies used during Brathayuda war, by both Pandawa and Kurawa, which were successfully implemented to defeat the enemy. Some of the strategies are lobster pincer and elephant strategies.

You do not have to spend much to visit this museum. The entrance ticket is IDR 3,000 and additional IDR 2,000 for guidance book. Before begin your exploration, a guide will explain to you about the history and parts of the museum. Public transportation is easy to find to reach this place.

Text: Yunanto Wiji Utomo
Photo & Artistic: Agung Sulistiono Mabruron
Copyright © 2007 YogYES.COM

AFFANDI MUSEUM

 

Address: Jl. Laksda Adisucipto 167, Yogyakarta 55281, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°46'58.6" E110°23'46.8"


Affandi museum is all part of Affandi's life as a painting maestro. At the bank of Gajah Wong River, Affandi used to live, work, and transform his knowledge and now he lives in his eternal home there.

Affandi Museum, Visiting the Palace of a Maestro

Visiting Affandi Museum that is located on Jalan Raya Yogyakarta - Solo, or by the west bank of Gajah Wong River, give an opportunity for you to trace all meaningful parts of Affandi's life. You can see the great works when he was alive, the works of other painters that he kept, the vehicles that he used in the past, the house where he used to live and a gallery that now functions as a place to educate gifted children in painting.

The complex of the museum consists of 3 galleries with gallery I as the ticket box and the starting point of your exploration. Gallery I that was personally opened by Affandi in 1962 and was inaugurated in 1974 contains some of his paintings from the early time of his work to the late time of his life. The paintings most of which are sketches and reproductions are placed in two rows - upper and lower - that fill the curved room.

Still in Gallery I, you can see valuable things belonging to Affandi. At one corner of the room, there is a 1976 Colt Gallant car in greenish yellow color that was modified to form a fish, and an old wind-cycle as his means of transportation. The reproduction of the statue of Affandi and her daughter, Kartika, is shown as well.

Entering Gallery II, you will see paintings by different painters, both junior and senior ones. The gallery that was inaugurated in 1988 consists of two floors with paintings that you can see from different angles. The first floor is full of abstract paintings and the second floor contains realist-style paintings.

Gallery III as the next destination is a unique building of which roof resembles banana leaf. The three-stories floor is a multifunction gallery with the first floor functions as an exhibition room as well as the location of "Gajah Wong Gallery" for children who sharpen their painting ability, the second floor functions as paintings treatment and restoration room, and the room underground is utilized to keep painting collections.

There is a tower close to Gallery III where you can see the scenery of the entire museum, Gajah wong River and the hurly-burly of the main street. Walking to the west, you will come to a house with unique architecture where Affandi and his family used to live.

The house was built with the concept of a stage-house with concrete as the main pillars and other poles are from wood. The roof is shingle roof forming banana leaf and the shape of the building is uniquely curving. The ground floor is used for Kafe Loteng where you can buy foods and drinks and the upper floor is personal room of Affandi's.

At the left side of the house, there is a cart functioning as a place for praying. The cart used to be the resting place for Affandi's wife, Maryati. Initially, Maryati wanted a caravan as the ones used by many Americans as a mobile living place. Affandi agreed to the concept but with more Indonesian style, namely a cart.

Before leaving the museum, take a little time to visit the tomb of the maestro who passed away on 23 May 1990. The tomb lays between Gallery I and II. The eternal home of Affandi's lays beside his wife's eternal home. The yard of the homes is decorated by lushness of rose trees.

In order to visit Affandi Museum, you only have to spend IDR 10,000 for domestic tourists and IDR 20,000 for foreign tourists and additional IDR 10,000 for taking photographs.

Text: Yunanto Wiji Utomo
Photo & Artistic: Agung Sulistiono Mabruron
Copyright © 2007 YogYES.COM

GABUSAN ART MARKET

 

Address: Jl. Parangtritis km 9,5 Yogyakarta 55186, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°52'40.2" E110°21'5.7"


Gabusan Art Market that accommodates 444 craftsmen has been a paradise of handicrafts in Bantul. Facilitated with information center, this market will eventually accommodate 8,015 handicraft units from all parts of Bantul district.

Gabusan Market, Handicraft Paradise in Bantul

There is another way to enjoy art works of Bantul people without having to wander about villages that produce them, namely by visiting Gabusan Art Market. The market that is located on Jalan Parangtritis km 9 has been the center of handicrafts trading for the last 2 years. Other facilities such as cafeterias, information technology access and groceries are there for you, too.

Gabusan was designed to open access for craftsmen to international market. For the reason, the design of the market accommodating around 444 craftsmen is of international standard. The design of the market was done by both domestic and foreign architects by, of course, accentuating local architecture. Divided into 16 stalls, Gabusan sells handicrafts of various raw materials, ranging from leather, metals, wood, clay to water hyacinth.

Arriving at the area of Gabusan market, you will be greeted by an interestingly designed gate. On the gate, there are restaurant, crossing bridge and ramp. Having your meals in that restaurant, you will be able to see the entire market from the top view. Close to the area, there is a shop as an information center as well as the place for visitors to get their stuff. This shop is designed so artistically that it has its own interest.

Entering the first stall, you will enjoy bag handicraft made from rattan. Neat woven of the bag gives durable image and combination of the cloth and accessories gives meaningful added value. Various unique, elegant designs produce multifunctional bags for multi purposes. Other handicraft that is available in that stall is a box made from woven bamboo. Despite its simple design and function, the box still looks unique in various bright colors.

If you want to buy candle stands for your guest rooms, you will find them in stall eight. Many types of candle stands from different materials are available. There is a candle container forming like a small, brown bowl with string decoration around it. Another candle stand is made from bamboo some part of which sides are split to make stands with string ornaments on them. In addition to functioning as stand for the glowing candle, the beautiful design of it will attract your guests in your guest room.

Still related to home decorations, you will find interesting masks of various designs in stall six. Some leather masks are carved beautifully in enchanting colors. If you like artificial flowers included the vases, you will get them in stall thirteen. The vases are made of wood or clay with special ornaments of the surfaces. Plain vases without ornaments are not less interesting as well.

Small functional items with artistic designs give valuable added value for you and your family. A standard photo frame, for example, is designed so beautifully with special ornament such as dragon. Pencil case is also available in different variations. There is a pencil case in the form of a sitting man with his white hair as the ornament and the pencil holes are in the front part. Many other items are beautifully designed by the people in Bantul area such as tray in various enchanting designs.

The information center will help to find any kinds of product that you can find in the market. Details of products, prices, location of the stall where you are going to put your orders are all available there. Connected to Internet network, this information center indicates that you can put your order on line. Gradually, this market will accommodate 8,015 handicraft units. The earthquake on 27 May 2006 hit this market mildly but it is being recovered now.

Text: Yunanto Wiji Utomo
Photo & Artistic: Sutrisno
Copyright © 2006 YogYES.COM

KASONGAN

 

Address: Desa Kasongan, Bantul, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°50'47.3" E110°20'34.4"

Close look at ceramic handicrafts making that is done from generation to generation while hunting beautiful hand-made collections produced by skillful craftsmen.

 

Kasongan, Hunting Ceramics in Kundi Community

 In the Dutch colonial time, in one of the areas at the southern part of Yogyakarta there was a shocking and even threatening occurrence with the finding of a dead horse owned by a Dutch detective on a rice field of a villager. Being afraid of punishment, the villager gave up his land ownership and did not acknowledge his land anymore. This was followed by other villagers. This given up land was then possessed by people of other village. Having no more fields to cultivate, the local people ended up with becoming ceramics craftsmen to make toys and kitchen sets until now. This was revealed in an interview by Prof. Gustami at all with local elders in 1980s.

It is that area that we know it as Kasongan until present time; a village in Kajen hamlet that is situated in low mountains with limestone soil. It takes 15-20 minutes drive from the city center.

Kasongan village is the dwelling place of kundis, which means earthenware jugs and later refers to people who make any earthenware jug-like as kitchen tools and ornaments.

"Beginning from our ancestor's habit to knead clay that turns out not to break when it is united, and begin to make some functions for kid toys and kitchen tools. The habit was then descended to current generation," said Giman, one of the workers in Loro Blonyo workshop.

Visiting Kasongan village, the tourists will be welcomed warmly by local inhabitants. They may have a look the showroom crowded with ceramic handicrafts. If they are interested in seeing the ceramics making, tourists can visit some ceramic galleries that produce the special handicrafts at site. The processes are material kneading, shaping, drying that takes 2-4 days and burning before finally being finished using wall paint or roof-tile paint.

Working collectively, a gallery is usually a family business run from generation to the next generation. Even though ceramics making is now involving neighbors of surrounding dwelling place of the gallery owner, the family is still responsible for material selection and production monitoring.
 

Touch of Modern Design

At the beginning, these ceramics did not have style at all. The legend of the dead horse, however, inspired the craftsmen to create horse motifs on many products, especially the horses carrying earthenware goods or roof-tiles complete with bamboo basket placed on the horseback, in addition to frog, rooster and elephant motifs.

The entering modern influence and culture from outside through various media and the first introduction of Kasongan to public by Sapto Hudoyo around 1971-1972 with artistic and commercial touch and commercially sold in major scale by Sahid Keramik around 1980s enables tourists to see various ceramic motifs. Tourists can even order motifs to their like such as peacock, dragon, rose and others. The types of self production include so many forms. They do not only make kid toys (sounding toys, frog, and money box) and kitchen tools (kuali, pengaron, kendil, dandang, kekep, and others). Entering the gate of Kasongan village, you will see ceramics galleries that sell ornamental items alongside the street. The forms and functions have varied, from small ashtray to flower vase as high as one's shoulder. The ornamental goods either have functions or merely as ornament.

Loro Blonyo Ceramic Statue

One of famous ceramic displays is statue of a couple sitting in polite position. This statue is named Loro Blonyo at the first time by Loro Blonyo gallery owned by Walujo. This statue is adopted from a bridal couple owned by Yogyakarta Kingdom. In Javanese language, Loro means two or a couple, while Blonyo means to be made over through bathing and making up. "The real meaning of Loro Blonyo, however, is still in question among craftsmen in Kasongan," Giman said.


The existing belief of Loro Blonyo statue that brings luck and perpetual family life when located at home, as Giman told YogYES, brings positive impact on the sales of this statue. Some foreigners place order of special statues in certain forms such as dancer, guitar player, models and others. The clothes are not standard Javanese anymore; special clothes of some countries are adopted; statues in Balinese and Thailand clothes are found most. Some ceramic galleries sell this statue in different styles.

Tourism Village

Since the end of the twentieth century, after economy crisis hit Indonesia, tourists may find other products other than earthenware goods. The entering of new comers who open galleries in Kasongan is one of the influences. They sell local products such as handicrafts from coconut tree, dried plants or shellfish. "Business catches up with trend and development, looking at opportunities," Giman adds. Earthenware goods, however, are main means of livelihood of local community. "We have the gift for that; furthermore we have no other skills. Most of us do not finish Senior High School. Only few of them," he adds.

Ceramic handicrafts with various forms and modern as well as artistic motifs and other handicrafts are magnets of Kasongan at present time. Kasongan is a tourism place full of stories and beautiful goods resulted from skillful hands of local community to knead clay.

Two months after the quake, many galleries in Kasongan begin to actively revive although some of them are still in reconstruction stage. By far, there is no more fear of both owners and workers. Local community expects tourists to visit Kasongan as they did before the quake. (YogYES.COM: R. Syah)

BERINGHARJO

 

Address: Jl. Pabringan 1, Yogyakarta 55122, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°47'55.4" E110°21'54.7"

Beringharjo has been functioning as a trading place since 1758. Now, it offers more merchandise, ranging from batik, traditional snacks, Javanese herbs, to Buddha effigy costing hundreds thousands.

 

 

Beringharjo, a Complete, Traditional Market in Yogyakarta

 Beringharjo market becomes part of Malioboro that is worth visiting. This market has been center of economy activity since years ago and its existence has philosophical meaning. The market that had been renovated several times symbolizes stages of human life that is busily engaged in its economy fulfillment. Furthermore, Beringharjo is also one of the 'four in one' poles (consisting of South Square, Sultan Palace, North Square, and Beringharjo market) symbolizing economy functions.

The area where current Beringharjo market lies used to be forest of banyan trees. Soon after the foundation of Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat Kingdom, i.e. in 1758, the area was used as a place for economy transaction by the people of Yogayarkta and its vicinities. Only hundreds years later, namely in 1925, the transaction place had a permanent building. The name 'Beringharjo' was given by Hamengku Buwono IX, meaning that the place where banyan tree (bering) used to grow is expected to bring welfare (harjo). Now, tourists define this place as an enjoyable shopping place.

The front part and the western part of the market are the right places to find delicious traditional snacks. At the north side of the front part, you will find round brem (a kind of snack made from the extract of fermented tubers) that is softer than that of Madiun city and krasikan (sweet cake made from glutinous rice and palm sugar). In the south part, you will find bakpia cake filled with mung bean that is sold warm and wet snacks such as hung kwe and nagasari. Meanwhile, at the back part, usually they sell durable snacks such as ting-ting made of caramel mixed with peanut.

If you want to buy batik, Beringharjo is the best place because of its complete collections; ranging from batik cloth to batik clothes made of both cotton and silk materials, with the prices ranging from tens thousands to a million. Collection of batik cloth is available in west and north parts of the market, while batik clothes collection is available almost everywhere in the west part of this market. In addition to batik clothes, the west part of the market also offers traditional clothes: surjan, blangkon, and sarong both woven and batik printed ones. Sandals and bags sold at reasonable prices are available around the escalator of the west part of the market.

Stepping upstairs to the second floor, you will smell the aroma of Javanese herbs. Herbs such as turmeric that is usually blended with tamarind to produce special drink and temulawak to make bitter drink for medication purpose are sold here. Spices such as ginger (to make ronde drink or merely to be baked, boiled and mixed with crystal sugar) and cinnamon (to enrich the flavors of such drinks as ginger drink, coffee, tea and sometimes to substitute chocolate in cappuccino).

This is also the right market to hunt antiques. The center of antique goods is in east part of the third floor. There, you can get old typewriter, helmet made in 1960s with the front part of which is mica as high as one's nose and some other items. On the same floor, you can get used items of good quality if you want. Various kinds of good quality used imported goods such as shoes, bag, and even clothes are sold at much cheaper prices compared to the original prices. Of course, carefulness in choosing is needed.

After completing your going around in the market, it is time for you to explore the area around the market with not less interesting offers. The area at the north of the market that used to be popular as Chinese Kampong is the most popular place. You can find oldies cassettes of musicians in 1950s that are rarely found in other places at the most expensive price of 50,000 Rupiah. Besides, there are Buddha effigies in different poses costing 250,000 Rupiah. For collectors of old money, they can get the ones from various countries, even the ones utilized in 1930s.

To quench your thirst, special cold drink of Yogyakarta, namely cendol ice, is the right choice. This cold drink from Yogyakarta has richer flavor than the ones from Banjarnegara and Bandung. The contents are not only cendol (jelly-like substance made from glutinous rice but also cam cau (jelly-like substance made from cam cau leaves). Other drinks you can try are young coconut ice with palm sugar and the drink made from turmeric-tamarind and rice-great galingale mixtures. The price of the drink is cheap, namely 1,000 to 2,000 Rupiah.

Even though the market is closed at 05:00p.m, the dynamics of the merchants does not stop by that time. In front of the market, there are still many food sellers offering many kinds of special food. Martabak with various fillers, the sweet terang bulan mixed with chocolate and peanut, and the delicious klepon filled with palm sugar are sold every evening. At around 06:00p.m. until late at night, there is usually gudeg seller who also offers special cuisines of cow skin and variant of stir-fried vegetables with chili. While having your meals, you can listen to Javanese traditional music or have a talk with the seller who will address you friendly. It is just complete!

Text: Yunanto Wiji Utomo
Photo & Artistic: Sutrisno
Copyright © 2006 YogYES.COM

MALIOBORO

 

Address: Jl. Malioboro, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°47'34.9" E110°21'57.3"

Walking through one-kilometer pathway will be so tiring, but the memory of old buildings and souvenirs stories will release it.

Malioboro, Nostalgia in Souvenirs Paradise

 Stretching on imaginary poles connecting Yogyakarta Sultan Palace, Tugu and the peak of Merapi Mountain, this street forms trading locality after Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono I developed means of trading through traditional market since 1758. After 248 years, the place still persists as a trading area; it even becomes the icon of Yogyakarta, known as Malioboro.

Located around 800 meters from Yogyakarta Sultan Palace, this place was always crowded with flowers each time the Palace held ceremonies. Malioboro that in Sanskrit means bouquet serves as a basis for naming this street.

Framed by shops, offices, restaurants, star hotels and historical buildings, the street that once functioned as struggling center during the second Dutch military aggression in 1948 was once a place of wandering for the artists joining together in Persada Studi Klub (PSK) community led by Umbul Landu Paranggi since 1970s to around the end of 1990s.

Souvenirs Paradise

Enjoying shopping experience, hunting exclusive souvenirs of Jogja, tourists may walk on foot along the arcades of Malioboro Street. There are many vendors selling their merchandises, ranging from such local handicrafts as batik, rattan ornament, leather puppet, bamboo handicrafts (key holder, ornament lamp, and others) as well as blangkon (Javanese / Jogjanese traditional cap) and silver goods to general little things that you may find in other trading places. Along the arcade, tourists will not only enjoy shopping peacefully on sunny or rainy days but they also enjoy bargaining prices. If they are good at bargaining and have good luck, they will end up buying at third quarter or even half of the prices offered.


Do not forget to save energy. There is still one big traditional market tourists must visit. Well known as Pasar Beringharjo, this market provides complete traditional products in addition to similar goods sold along the arcade of Malioboro Street. In addition to local products of Jogja, products from neighboring areas such as Pekalongan batik and Solo batik are available. There are many choices of hand made batik, printed batik, window curtain with unique motifs and batik bed sheet. This place will satisfy the desire of buying unique goods at reasonable price.
Please make sure that you are not cheated by the offered prices. Usually, the vendors will increase the prices for tourists.

Vredeburg Fort and Gedung Agung

At the end of this "bouquet" street, tourists can drop by at Vredeburg Fort that is located across Gedung Agung. This fort was the Dutch protection basis from possible attacks by Yogyakarta Kingdom troops. Similar to other forts, this place built in 1765 is high, square walls confining the area inside with one monitoring tower in each of the four corners for patrolling purpose. From the tower at the southern part, YogYES took the opportunity to enjoy sceneries of the Sultan Palace and other historical buildings.

Malioboro Cross-Legged Food Vendors (Lesehan, Javanese Language)

 When the sun sets in the west and at the same time the lights along the street and the arcade add more beauty to Malioboro, food sellers begin to set the cross-legged eating place. Special menu of Jogja such as Gudeg and Pecel Lele are served in addition to oriental cuisines and sea food as well as Padang cuisine of West Sumatra. The street singers will sing hit songs and memory songs for some small change.

For tourists who are going to try menus served along Malioboro Street, please do not hesitate to check the price list and confirm it to the seller to prevent illogical charge.

Visiting Yogyakarta, the city known as "The Javanese Culture Living Museum" will not be complete unless you pay a visit to the street that keeps various stories of Indonesian Nation struggle and crowded with various souvenirs. It is paradise for history lovers and souvenirs hunters.
(YogYES.COM: R. Syah)

WARUNGBOTO

 

Address: Jl. Veteran, Warungboto, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
GPS Coordinate: S7°48'37.2" E110°23'35.2"

A very beautiful ancient water garden that was designed privately is found in Warungboto area. The water garden is located amidst the Pesanggarahan Warungboto that had ruined now.

Pesanggrahan Warungboto and the Enchantment of the 19th Century Water Garden

 When we pass by Jalan Veteran (the road directing to the right from the crossroad before Gembira Loka zoo) and see the ruins of a house-like building, we may neglect it as it looks like a common house building. Starting from now, however, we must know that the building is historical since it is one of the pesanggrahans built by Hamengku Buwono II.

The proof of it is that the name of the building is mentioned in one traditional Javanese song telling about Hamengku Buwono II. In that song, the building is not called pesanggrahan Warungboto as current people call it now, but it is named pesanggrahan Rejowinangun. The song itself in overall tells about the success gained during the reign of Hamengku Buwono II.

For some people, visit to this place will be boring, because there is no grandeur we can see. However, tourism does not always mean visiting luxurious places, does it? Simple places, even those that left only remains, must have an attraction. YogYES that visited this site a couple of days ago still found the beauty of some corners even though many parts of the building had been destroyed.

We began exploring the building from the front part or the one in direct border with the main road. This front part is of square shape with the floor made from something like cement. Located in front, this part possibly functioned as a hall or lobby as in modern buildings this time. From the front part, we can see the view of all complex of the pesanggrahan.

On the left side, there is a narrow, downward staircase. We could directly guest that the building of this pesanggrahan was of two stories like other buildings of similar pesanggrahan constructed of two floors. We have to be careful to go downward because there is no holding rail on both sides and much moss grow on most parts of it to make them slippery.

It is in this underground floor that we can see much of the enchanting parts of the building. The most beautiful part is the garden area that is completed with two ponds. The first pond is of circular shape with the diameter of 4.5 meters and the there is a water spring in the center of it. The second pond, on the other hand, is of square shape with the dimension of 10 meters x 4 meters. Those two ponds are adjacent one to each other with the connecting channel that can be seen clearly from the second pond.

We were astonished by the architecture of the pesanggrahan building when we are in this garden area. How could not we be so, the designer of this building that was built in 1800s had thought of the existence of a garden with very private pool, surrounded by other buildings to make it unseen from outside. Besides, the walls encircling it also looked high and thick, signaling the robustness of the ancient buildings.

To the north and south of the pond, there is a sufficient wide door of medium high. The door connects to other part of the underground space. In the east part of the pond, we will see three windows, one is of square shape and the other two are with arch shape on them. While in the west part of the pond, there is one door with an arch at the upper part, connecting to the next two arch doors equipped with some staircases. The last two doors connect the garden area underground to the ground floor.

Returning to the ground floor and explore the south side of the building, we will see the ruins of the wall. The wall was possibly the divider among the rooms in the pesanggrahan. There is unique part of the wall with its uneven surface that is predicted to have ornaments in the past. One robust wall still stands in the front part of the southern side. On the wall, there are square windows.

Actually, when Archeology Department arranged the place in 1980, there were still some ornaments. One of them should be the garuda statue in the south side, and a dragon statue in the east part and one flowerpot as a component of the pond. Unfortunately, YogYES did not find them even though we have explored each corner of the room. You might find one when you visit this location. We might be the only one who missed them!

To visit this place, there are some route alternatives. The easiest to take is when you leave from Kotagede. If we are on the way to Kotagede, we may pass by Jalan Kusumanegara until we get to the crossroad close to SGM milk factory, then we turn right. If we leave from Kotagede, we only have to take Jalan Ngeksigondo to the west direction until we get to Gambiran gas station and we turn right.

This pesanggrahan is relatively easy to reach and we do not have to pay anything to enter the location. One sure thing, when you make your tour to Yogyakarta you will feel to complete your visit if you have come to pesanggrahan Warungboto that used to be utilized by the family members of Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat kingdom to meditate.

Text: Yunanto Wiji Utomo
Photo & Artistic: Agung Sulistiono Mabruron
English Translation: Emanuel, Downhill English Services

Copyright © 2007 YogYES.COM